Two lakes, two completely different wildlife experiences, and back in Nairobi before dinner.  We start at Lake Nakuru National Park: 2.5 hours from Nairobi: where the lake shore can turn entirely pink with flamingoes. On good days there are hundreds of thousands of them, a spectacle that is genuinely unlike anything else in Kenya. The park also protects both white and black rhino in significant numbers, and lions patrol the yellow acacia woodland around the shoreline. We stop at Baboon Cliff for a panoramic view over the lake and the Rift Valley floor.  In the afternoon we drop to Lake Naivasha, where the mood shifts completely. Here it is the water that matters: a boat ride through the papyrus channels brings you to hippo pods at eye level, fish eagles calling from the fever trees, and pelicans drifting past. If you want to step off the boat and walk, Crescent Island offers a gentle walking safari among giraffe, zebra, and wildebeest on the edge of the lake.