North of Mount Kenya the safari changes character. The crowds thin out, the landscape turns to red earth and doum palm, and the wildlife list fills with species you will not see in the Mara: reticulated giraffe, Grevy's zebra, Somali ostrich, beisa oryx and the impossibly long-necked gerenuk. This six-day loop links the three great reserves of the north into a single unhurried circuit.
Samburu and Buffalo Springs: Two Banks of One River
The Ewaso Nyiro river divides Samburu National Reserve from Buffalo Springs, and game drives here work both banks: elephant digging for water in the sand, leopard in the riverine figs, and the Northern Five grazing the scrub. Three nights give you time for the crocodile pools, the springs themselves, and a visit to a Samburu village where the culture is a living thing rather than a performance.
Meru: The Empty Quarter
Two hours east, Meru National Park is the least-visited big park in Kenya: thirteen rivers, rhino sanctuary, lion in the long grass and the landscapes where Elsa the lioness of Born Free was set free. After the relative bustle of Samburu's lodges, Meru feels like having Kenya to yourself.
Route Notes
The circuit runs clockwise from Nairobi with no doubled roads and no leg longer than five hours. It is a dry-country route at its best June to October and December to March, and it combines naturally with a Mara extension for a full two-week Kenya.
